This World Traveler

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

North Korea Opens Its First Hostel... in Berlin

Where you sleep when you visit Berlin may just have become political again. According to Bloomberg News, the North Korean government is taking some of its unused embassy space, left over from when their operations were much larger in the former East German capital, and turning a section of their building into a Hostel.

Expected to open in May, Cityhostel Berlin will include a Korean restaurant and a Grand Piano apparently. The cost per night? 20 Euros a night (or roughly $31) for a bed. That's actually on the high end of competitive for Berlin, where even in high season, dorm beds generally run for about 14 or 15 Euros a night. But they don't get the added benefit of funding one of the world's most repressive and horrifying regimes in the process.

Sometimes it makes sense to consider where your travel dollar is going. A lot of hostels in the developing world can make you wonder if the money you are spending is going to the community around you, or going back to the owner's home country. In this case, where the money is being headed is most definitely worth consideration. After all, in this Korean restaurant it might be worth considering that eating Kimchi in this hostel isn't keeping North Koreans from eating tree bark to stay alive, even if the money is going to North Korea.

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Roger, 2:07 PM | link | 0 comments |

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

In Over Your Head, Berlin: A Memoir

Long trips on the road in expensive places means getting your kicks by unorthodox means. When I felt the need for drinks, $25 a day budgets aren't going to get you much beer, even if you have a free place to stay. "If only I was a girl," I thought. "Girls always get free drinks." As I pondered my gender jealousy, a revelation appears. "I am gay," I thought, "and reasonably young. Maybe this could work to my advantage."

So it was settled, I'd find a gay bar to flirt for free drinks. This isn't the easiest thing in the world for a guy like me to do. Sure, I was in my mid-20's. But I was still a fat, balding kid - not exactly the most attractive fruit in the basket. I needed a plan... and the answer came to me with one word. BEAR.

BEAR is a gay bar in Berlin. It caters to "bears," or fat hairy men. Balding guys that are overweight and with beards are the ideal of beauty here... so this just might work. I'd go to the bar, find a friendly older gentleman and flirt for some beer. If more happens, more happens, but this should work.

About 11 at night, I walk in the door. The weekend of gay pride I figure might make for a large crowd. Except I was wrong, there was about 9 or 10 people there. I take a seat and order a Beck's at the bar. A man comes up next to me and sits down. He starts to speak with me first in German, then in English as he realizes that I'm American. I keep up the conversation, offering friendship and hoping for a beer.

He leans in. The guy is about 70 or so and oddly reminiscent of my German grandfather. He starts whispering to me a bit, and stinks of buttermilk. He tells me I'm sexy, I'm flattered. He tells me I have nice thighs and I start to get a little weirded out. His buttermilk breath gets a bit stronger as I feel his hand wander into my crotch.

Maybe if this gentleman was a little less forward, or a little younger, I might not have freaked out. Maybe if he just didn't really remind me so much of my grandfather. I jumped out of my stool, through a few Euro down for the beer and ran out of the bar. Shell shocked, and over my head. In my mind I was screaming, and I hit the first train back to the house I was staying in. This ploy worked well across Europe. Paris, London, Amsterdam, Copenhagen. But in Berlin, Europe's capital of smut, I was truly in over my head.

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Roger, 2:48 PM | link | 0 comments |

Friday, February 01, 2008

Four Small Airports


Today, Cranky Flier was talking about British Airways' recent announcement that they'll be flying narrow body jets across the Atlantic, from the New York area to downtown London, out of the not often used London City airport. The more I read about that, the more I thought about the smaller airports that I've used over the last few years.

Smaller airports generally mean shorter wait times to check in, go through security and a pleasant environment. Unfortunately, it also means there is a lot less to do in the case of a long wait time. I've gone through my share of them. Some still offer regular jet service, some don't.

1. Lubeck, Germany - currently serviced by Ryanair
Lubeck is a northern German focus city for the low cost Irish airline, Ryanair, offering service to five different destinations. The old small terminal building has a restaurant and bar, and little else. But at least there's beer! The actual behind security area resembles a steel pole barn. Because that is basically what it is with four "gate areas" which are really just barn doors with desks in front of them. This was my first experience with the Ryanair cattle call, and the cement floor and undecorated barn experience of the airport definitely helped make the livestock feeling come alive.

2. Reims, France - currently not serviced by any airline
Reims is a tiny tiny building with virtually no services. Just a glorified waiting room. The odd thing about this airport is the baggage carousel. It's an indoor outdoor carousel. So when your bag is taken off the plane, it sits on the conveyor belt outside, their baggage system is literally, pull the bag on the plane and set it on the carousel.... If you miss your bag as it rotates through, it ends up back outside for another round with the elements. If it takes you a bit to get to the front of the baggage line, you can end up with a very wet bag, as what happened to me flying to France on Ryanair back in 2003.

3. South Bend, IN - currently served by Delta, Northwest, United, CapeAir and Allegiant

This small regional airport, about 90 miles from Chicago, is a pleasant place and has quite a bit of traffic going through it. Most of it are on small regional jets and turboprops. Cape Air flies 10 seat planes out of South Bend down to Indianapolis, for example. The operations definitely don't feel like a larger airport. In my recent experience, the deicing of the plane was done on what looked like the back of someone's modified pick up truck with a cherry picker attached. There are a couple places for coffee and a bar. But no services whatsoever on the other side of security, just vending machines and two cramped gate areas that serve as entire concourses.

4. Flint, MI - served by AirTran, Delta, Northwest, American, Continental, Midwest

This small airport 35 miles north of Detroit feels like a larger airport. In fact, it's grown quite a bit and is now the third largest airport in the state, just behind Grand Rapids and ahead of Lansing - whose airport does feel larger, even though it isn't.

The terminal was rebuilt within the last few years and it is, from the outside, meant to be reminiscent of a wing. From the inside, its reminiscent of Fisher Price. I was sitting in the snack bar/restaurant area of the Airport and looking around, I noticed its got all the "amenities" of a big time airport and laid out like a playset would be. The snackbar, the giftshop and shoe shine stand, just above the gates... And no sharp corners to hurt the kids! Aside from the playful nature of the terminal, it is very easy to get from point A to B. 10 minutes from check in to gate... and thats with Security check.

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Roger, 1:07 PM | link | 0 comments |

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

The Latest Travel Craze: Nudity

Hey, ever wanted to fly naked? It's now totally possible! Seriously. For some reason, Germans like to get naked. "Free Body Culture" or FKK as it is commonly known in Germany is fairly popular. This is when Germans do relatively normal things in the nude, for some reason unknown to everyone else. I'm guessing it is some sort of health craze.

Now a travel agency is offering nude flights. Day trips run just 500 Euros (about $750)! Those prices are stripped bare! Expensive? Yes. Rip off? Of course! You have to stay clothed during boarding and before getting off the plane... and the flight attendants aren't allowed to be naked either. Total gyp! If I was gonna pay out the nose to fly "free," I think I would want the pleasure of wandering through the airport nude as well. Would make security checkpoints go a lot faster I'd imagine.

Reuters has the scoop.

You have to call the agency to make the reservation, by the way, and if you can read German, the information is here.

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Roger, 1:37 PM | link | 0 comments |

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Four Crazy Nights: Unexpected Overnight Accommodations

You might be the same way. Love traveling, hate spending money to make it happen. Over the last few years, I've found a lot of different places to catch some shut-eye. Some amazing, some just amazingly bad. Nonetheless, I wouldn't trade these experiences for anything. Except maybe the Larouche cult trying to convert me to their style of politics. But even that was kinda fun, in a Jim Jones without the Kool-Aid kind of way. Anyway, here are some of the crazier, not so savory spots I've slept over the past few years.

1. The Tent - Munich, Germany
Is there anything better than a place to crash, hundreds of like minded travelers, and breakfast in the morning for eight dollars a night? If there is, I haven't found it yet. I spent three wonderful nights there in 2003, near the end of their season. The stay was pretty incredible. Meeting up with a lot of broke American backpackers, and a lot of Germans there for various reasons - including a few on business! The place sleeps about 300, all on the floor. They provide bedding, but bring your own sleeping bag. The bedding I got consisted of a foam pad, and four not-so-clean blankets. Including one with gum stuck to it. But when the beer is cheap, who cares where you sleep?

During my stay, I got attacked by Larouchites. Lyndon Larouche, political crackpot of the US, apparently has a political party in Germany and these people were staying there to campaign for their local slate of candidates in the Bavarian elections at the time. Larouchites from all over Europe came down to the Tent to headquarter a big weekend of campaigning. Problem was, none of them knew who the local candidates were. Their campaign consisted of protesting the US Presidency. Somehow this was going to get them votes, for local candidates.... in Germany. By the second night of inculcation, it got annoying, but the free beers I scored were pretty sweet - so I'd call it a wash.

This year the season opens June 15, and goes through early October. Rates for a spot on the floor of the big tent are Euro 7.50 a night. Click here to visit The Tent.

2. Amtrak
Need a cheap way to get across the country? And do you have a few days to kill? Than America's attempt at passenger train service is the right fit for you. Travel from Chicago to New York in a break-neck time of just 27 hours! That's only 15 hours longer than driving!

Seriously, though, when you catch sale fares, you can literally get from Chicago to New York for about 10 dollars sometimes. It's definitely an option for the budget conscious. Nights in the coach car, however, leave something to be desired. Seats are comfortable, but I always had the feeling I was one step away from being in a knife fight. Something there didn't feel entirely safe. And the feeling wasn't helped by when I woke up to find someone rifling through my bags directly over my head.

3. Botafogo Easy Hostel - Rio de Janiero, Brazil
There are few places I've found more relaxing than the Botafogo Easy Hostel. The name pretty much says it all. And it seems unique from other hostels in Latin America in that the vast majority of people there are actually from all over. So many of the travelers that were there said that in months, this was the first real international hostel they'd stayed at.

In some ways, the place felt like Cheers. There was a little bit of everything there. Cute Gay Brazilians, Drunk Canadians, Homeless French guys, Hot Belgian Women. Well, maybe not quite like Cheers - but close enough. It was a comfortable place to stay and there always seemed to be someone to talk to and pal around with. I don't think my visit to Rio would have been nearly as enjoyable anywhere else.

Check out cheap, comfortable digs here.

4. Den Roda Baten - Stockholm, Sweden
What better way to see the islands that make up Stockholm then by staying on a boat? Well it turns out, many. I was sick when I stayed there. Unfriendly staff. A Samoan guy picking pockets of the Japanese tourists in my room, bathroom sinks that didn't work and showers without hot water. All for 25 dollars a night! This makes my "Crazy Nights" list only because it was, without a doubt, the single worst hostel experience I've had. People find this place kind of hot and cold though. Some love it, some hate it... and some get bedbugs.

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Roger, 3:36 PM | link | 0 comments |

Monday, May 21, 2007

The blogs worth reading...
Every day, I find another travel blog to explore, and there's always a couple things worth sharing. Here's what I loved this week.


The New York Times is all about Weissbier! They took a tour of Northern Germany and explored the different kinds of regional brews that Germany was famous for before everyone learned to love the Pilsner.

Have I mentioned how much I'm loving Knife Tricks lately? My new favorite blog is bringing out piece by piece stories of his visit to North Korea and I'm absolutely enthralled.

Oh yeah, Slate has a great photo essay on Seattle and its architectural revolution over the last thirty years or so.

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Roger, 1:30 AM | link | 0 comments |

Thursday, May 10, 2007


On The Road Eats: 5 Great Fast Food places!

1. In-N-Out Burger (Multiple Locations)
Oh my goodness, what amazing food! And what a simple menu too! I was floored on my first visit there and how packed it was, but when I tasted my 4X4 Animal Style, I knew that this was something special and I understood. The menu is simple. Hamburger, Cheeseburger, Double Cheeseburger, fries, milkshakes and soda. But there are hidden menu items. You can get your burger there protein style, which is with a lettuce bun - or animal style which contains some sort of secret sauce. The fries are fresh cut in the restaurant and always always fresh. I have eaten no finer fast food then that of the In-N-Out Burger.

2. Max's (Long Branch, NJ)
What can I say about this place that can't be described in four words? Foot Long Hot Dogs. And they're great. It's not all that the restaurant which is right off the Atlantic Ocean serves every summer when it opens, but it might as well be. It's what they're known for and rightly so. Nothing says summertime to me quite like my first foot long of the year doused in brown mustard at Max's.

3. L'As du Falafel (Paris, France)
Nothing says fast food to me better than mediterranean food. Be it Falafel or Gyros or Doner Kebap sandwiches - and the Ace of Falafel in Paris is just that. Just the right blend of spicy and crunchy. I was shown the place, which is in what remains of the Jewish quarter of the city in the 4th Arrondisement. Recommended dish here - the Falafel!

4. Random Doner Kebap Stand (Across from Zoo Bahnhof, Berlin Germany)
I went to Germany all the time as a child, and until my late teen years, I was always afraid of Doner Kebap. The everything but the kitchen sink sandwich that Turkish fast food stands sold around seemingly every corner in Germany. Finally, at age 14, I tried one. I fell immediately in love. When I was 16, I'd have a fourth meal after dinner with my grandparents every night. I'd walk to the stand three blocks away and have a Doner. It grew to be my favorite food ever, and its probably because of its location and how it was always near my grandparents. Four years ago, I visited the area. My grandparents were no longer there and nor was the stand. However, I found a stand near Zoo Bahnhof, just off Kufurstendamm that was almost as good. Just not quite the same feeling to go with the flavor.

5. King Gyros (Michigan City, Indiana)
When I thought about the fifth spot for this list. I was torn between this and Skyline Chili, the midwestern chili chain that comes from Cincinatti. I fell in love with the Three Way when I was in college, but King Gyros is ultimately the most special. There's no other reason to go to Michigan City, in my opinion... other than the beaches. But the Gyro platter with what seems like a pound of fresh Gyro meat, nice salad, huge chunks of Feta cheese and fresh French Fries. Sometimes, a meal like this makes you think that everything IS right in this world after all.

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Roger, 12:21 AM | link | 0 comments |